Lyon.....

It is Sunday morning in Lyon. The sky is bluer than blue. It is a laid-back and warm late summer - early autumn morning. The locals have all come out to enjoy the last day of their summer holiday period. Tomorrow it is back to school and back to work.

Lyon sits at the confluence of two rivers; The Rhone and the smaller Saone. The centre of the old city is on a 500m wide "peninsular" formed as the rivers run parallel for about 4km, before they finally meet and flow onto together towards their final destination in the Mediterranean Sea at the Camargue.

Lyon is old but very little really remains of the Roman and medieval town. The old city is Renaissance era old. Depending on which guide book you read Lyon is either the second or third largest city in France. This is hard to believe because the city centre is so accessible and relaxed.

The wealth and the power of a city is always reflected in its streetscape and so it is in Lyon.





On Sunday mornings, markets line both banks of the River Saone for a kilometre or more. These are seriously picturesque and atmospheric markets. The markets are really three separate markets; food, art and books. It is love at first sight.









High on the hill on the western bank of the Soane is the Basilica Notre Dame, dominating the Lyon skyline. It was built by the people in the mid-nineteenth century in thanks for the city being saved by their patron saint the Virgin Mary from the marauding Prussians.

The interior is very grand.





At the bottom on the hill on the banks of the Soane is the Cathedral St Jean. Although older, more historic and more ecclesiastically important St Jean is a bit of a plain Jane in comparison to its flashy, dominating, top of the hill neighbour, Notre Dame.



Down the river a kilometre or so is the Church of St George, making a wonderful reflection in the tranquil river Soane.


Across the other side of town, on the east bank of the Rhone is the city's swimming pool complex, open for just 3 months each year. The complex has two Olympic sized pools, end to end plus a kids pool and play area, all stretched along the river bank. Sunday afternoon is now summery hot, and the locals are out in droves in various states of undress enjoying the poolside life.

More people are enjoying life on the grandstand type terraces that continue along the eastern bank of the Rhone.

In Lyon (like most of France) there is very little in your face outdoor advertising. The people from Panasonic must have got lucky getting this sign approved because it dominates the eastern bank city skyline. (BTW if there is anyone reading this that works for Panasonic, we would just like to let you know that we are available to babysit children in Lyon anytime!!)


While in every sandy park, under the shade of the big old trees, at least one game of Boules is in progress. Every town, village and suburb in France seems to have a sandy covered “boulodrome” under the shade of ubiquitous plain trees.

Lyon is a hip cool city, where the very old and the very modern blend seamlessly.


Their advertising slogan is "Only Lyon". The prowling lion is it's symbol.


The old wealth of Lyon was built on Silk production. Lyon's wealth today comes from the huge industrial complexes (ugly but profitable), it's thriving IT sector and from being a major banking city. Put it all together and you have a very vibrant city with a mix of young and old cultures, in a pretty compact space and that is hard to beat.

In the late afternoon we take a cruise to see Lyon form the river.









This sculpture just about sums up our day out in Lyon....magnificent.

On the road to St Symphorien d'Orzon...

It is Saturday 4th September. You know by now that Saturday is moving day. We are leaving La Buissonade and heading for St Symphorien just outside of Lyon in central France. It is about 400km and we are stopping off in Montelimar because it is half way, it has a farmer's market and because it is the capital of Nougat in France.

The farmer's market spreads up and down the streets and across at least 3 small squares in the city centre. There is all the standard yummy fair. We are now getting a little blase photographing markets. But we still can't pass a the cured meats or spices stalls without a little click.


The murals on the city's building announce the goodies that lie within.

The goodies include of course Nougat....


pastries...

and assorted goodies yet to be tasted and classified....


Our drive today takes us up the River Rhone valley. A lot of time the highway runs right beside France's largest river and occasionally crosses from side to side giving us a good perspective of it's size.


We also get a glimpse of some of the former cargo barges now converted into floating homes. We had expected to see a lot more...


We pass two Nuclear power stations quietly reacting away. The majority of French electricity is generated from Nuclear power stations. We hurry by trying not to think of the result of a melt down just at this moment.


At we get closer to Lyon we begin to see vineyards covering the steep hills on either side of the river.


and of course the obligatory ruined castle or chateau...


Our villa is in a farming area called St Symphorien d'Ozon just on the southern outskirts of Lyon.

On approach the exterior is again very rustic to say the least.

But the inside is bliss.

Kitchen...


Bathroom...


Main bedroom...

Second bed/sleep out...


Lounge room....


The view isn't half bad either...

Peacocks patrol the gardens....

Gorges du Verdon...

Before we get to our the main sightseeing objective today, the Gorges du Verdon, first we have to deal with our unexpected encounter with Lac de Sainte-Croix.






Lac de Sainte-Croix is a man made lake formed by damming the river that runs out of the Gorges du Verdon.

The water is the most brilliant turquoise. We literally just drove around a corner and stumbled onto this little gem of France. The sight and the setting is simply breath taking. Little did we know that this will be the first of many, many, WOW!!s and gasps today.

We should have known something was up because as we drove into the area the towns all looked prosperous and had many, many hotels.


One of the things we have noticed in our travels around the country, is the lack of tourism marketing and hype. You are left to discover things yourself. Just a simple sign is usually all there is to suggest that there might be something interesting to see or visit. In general all outdoor advertising is very minimal and understated. Outdoor advertising is most just directional “McDonnalds, third exit on second roundabout” type stuff.

After recovering our composure we began the drive along the road on the southern wall of the Gorges du Verdon, known as the "Corniche Sublime". Up and up, around and around we climbed. Around every corner another spectacular view.








Unfortunately photos can not truly convey the immense and the drama of the “Gorges” scenery.

With Jenelle and Neville taking photos and John driving carefully we slowly wound our way east, stopping occasionally to get out to savour the view. There are no official parking spots. The government probably thought they had done enough to build the road. Cars, motor-homes, motorcyclists and of course the bi-cyclists get along in an orderly and unflustered manner. People just stop, get out and take photos. If you can't get past you wait. People are very polite and patient. We are simply amazed.

We are also amazed at the lack of guard rails on the roadside in some places and the minimal guard rails everywhere else.


There are no pedestrian guard rails at any view point even the semi-official ones. There is not one warning sign about the drop or the danger of going too close to the edge. In France, if you fall off or drive off the cliff, then they sue you for cleaning up the mess. Australia has become such a nanny state.

Here we are on the side of the road on the other side of the low barrier is at least 1000 ft shear drop.

Believe it or not, along the drive we encounter a Chateau...


and a sprinkling of farms.


Near the top of the “Gorges” the is a very spectacular and convenient bridge.


The only thing we knew about the drive into the “Gorges” was the road on the southern side was the best because the road on the northern side of the “Gorges” according to the guide book was “a bit hairy”.

We crossed over the bridge, and taking the advice of the GPS Navigation, we ended up driving back along the “hairy” road on the western side of the “Gorges”.

More tunnels, some one way on blind corners, some just big enough for two small cars to pass. That's hairy!!!


In some cases the road had be sculptured out of rock providing just enough room to scrape by. HAIRY!!! We have no idea how many motor-homes navigate this road, but they do.

By the time we had reached the bridge at the top of the “Gorges” the crew were emotionally rung out from the drama of the view and the driving. The photographers were satiated. “Take us home, that”s enough for today” they said. But before long the lenses were poking out the windows again and the shutters were clicking away.

The return journey along the northern wall of the “Gorges” is nearer the bottom. The huge cliff faces towering above. Often the best way to see the cliff on our side was to look up through the sun roof of the car; bit scary.

To top it off we pass a waterfall appearing from nowhere out of the cliff face. Spectacular.