Perigueux is one of those city we walk into and fall instantly in love with. It happens so quickly and to both of us, at the same time, it must have to be something to do with the look and feel of the place. Or maybe we want to be seduced.
Perigueux (pronounced perry-go) is a very old city dating from before Roman times . It has been a very prosperous and powerful city for two millennium. Sure it has had it's share of sacking, looting and pillaging, but has always rebuilt itself in its own style. When a city has the underlying natural advantage of wealth and power it can often rebuilt itself better than before; and so it is for Perigueux.
Perigueux is about 200km east of Bordeaux in south west France on the river L'Isle. It is the administrative “capital” of a region known as the Dordogne – Perigord. The Dordogne is the major river of the region.
The Periogord region is the capital of froi gras and truffles production.
The most striking feature of Perigueux is St. Front Cathedral. With it's dome top Bell Tower
and multiple dome roof line.
How spectacular is that!
The architect who built Sacre-Coeur on Monmartre in Paris practiced his dome building here first when renovating St Front roof in the 19th century. The domes are currently being cleaned; what a difference a bit of elbow grease makes.
and is surrounded on all four sides by the arms of the cross, each with its own domed ceiling and supporting arches. At the outer ends of the cross is an arched chapel again with its own half domed ceiling. In one of the arched chapels at St Front is a massive altarpiece carved in walnut.
When we popped into St Front a world renowned organist was warming up for a concert that evening. To sit and listen to the power and the majesty of the organ in this almost monolithic space was awe inspiring.
The earliest surviving parts of Perigueux date from the Roman era. Perigueux was then known at Vessuna. The most dominating Roman era feature is the remnants of the huge 27m high and 20m diameter central "cella" of the Temple of Vesunna built in the 2nd century.
The Temple must have been humongous because it was used as a stone quarry up until the 19th century before it was protected as a historical monument.
Next door to the Vessuna Temple is a most fascinating museum. The museum is built on, over and around an archeological site containing the remnants of a grand Roman era house.
The effect of the glass walled museum that protects but doesn't isolate the site from the surrounding park and other Roman era buildings and objects is breathtaking. From inside you can see the Temple of Vesunna next door just like the Roman inhabitants of the house would have 2000 years ago. From inside you can also see later developments like the "new" city walls built in the 3rd century AD and then the later medieval buildings built on top of the walls.
The Barrier Castle (above) was one of these medieval buildings that used the "new' city walls as it's foundation. The castle was burned out during the War of Religion (between the Catholics and the Protestants) in 1575. It was never restored but with wisdom has been preserved for nigh on 500 years. Here preserved means it has not been quarried for it's stone.Versunna was the site of one of the largest Coloseums in the Roman empire. The Amphitheatre could seat 20,000 people and was built in the 1st century AD. Parts of the amphitheatre (those that weren't quarried) remain today. The Romans really new how to build stuff.
From these remnants we can see what a massive structure it must have been. We wonder whether parts of Suncorp Stadium or the MCG will still be around in 1900 years from now.The main old part of Perigueux dates from around the Renaissance period although its street plan is founded in it's medieval origins. The narrow streets and alleys
open onto irregular sqaures or Places.
Some of the medieval buildings remain. This is the door way to a house built in the 14th century. The doorway itself was built in the 16th century when the building was a hostel for pilgrams along the "Way of St James" to Santiago de Compostela in Spain. Note the shell carved above the door. The shell is the symbol of the "Way of St James".
Behind every shuttered door or window there is another treasure to find.
Around every corner another vista to enjoy.
Through another courtyard gate there is a garden and mansion to view.
And when you are a bit leg weary there is always the River L'Isle to contemplate,
as you eat your lunch of vine rippen tomato, goat cheeses, fresh basil on slices of "still warm from the oven" fresh baguette.
Just in case you missed the point "we're in love with Perigueux" and we think you will understand if we don't come home.
